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Solo to the summit of Manaslu

Report Manaslu expedition 29.08.-12.10.2008 by Marc Frauchiger

Seven years after my last expedition, I convinced my wife that it was time again to go for an Eight-thousander peak. We opted for Mt. Manaslu, at 8163mts the eight-highest mountain in the World, located in the Gorkha/Annapurna region in Nepal.

After countless training hours in the Swiss Alps and an “all-you-can-eat” diet to gain a few extra kilos, we were at last on our way to Nepal at the end of August. Arriving in Kathmandu we met for the first time all the other team members. And two days later our group (13guys and my wife) left the friendly chaos of Kathmandu by bus heading towards Arughat, where we would start our trekking to the basecamp.

Arughat is located at 500mts elevation (7663mts (!) to go for the summit), and as we were still in the Monsoon season it was very hot and very humid. Forget about sleeping with nighttime temperatures of 30°C and over 90% relative humidity. We certainly did not expect that when thinking of an eight-thousand meter peak expedition. After three days in the heat we finally started to gain some height and the climate became more to our liking. And after 7 days of walking we arrived in Sama/Samagoan (3500mts) the last village before the base camp. After a few days of rest, we then climbed up to the BC, located at 4800m, just level with the highest peak in Europe, Mt Blanc. First we had some good weather and could do an acclimatisation trip with two nights spent at camp 1 (5800m).

Back in the BC the weather changed and we had nearly continuous snow or rainfall for 10days. After 5 days we went up to camp 1 to rescue our tents under 1.5m of snow before going down again. Except from that excursion we were very lazy for 10 days, blocked at the BC and doing nothing else than sleep, eat and read, and getting more nervous with each bad weather day.

So our group was left in camp2 without support and wondering what to do. Most headed back reluctantly to the BC, but I made the proposition to try the summit directly from camp2. There was just one guy as crazy as me. The next night at 1.30am we started the climb to the summit. Unfortunately my companion got cold feet after 2hrs and turned back to camp 2. I still felt good and decided to continue alone and at 7.30am had reached camp3 at 7400m. From there on I continued the ascent with some Polish guys who had spent the night up there. Fueled by two PowerBar Energize bars and a handful of PoweBar Blasts I finally stood on the summit after 13hrs of ascent. I had made it and enjoyed a splendid view on the Annapurna and down into Tibet.

After about 20minutes and taking the mandatory pictures I headed down again. Going down I started feeling the fatigue, the missing fluid (I had 2.5l with me, which was not enough) and the altitude. Before reaching the camp I even began hallucinating, hearing voices of people who were not there. Anyway, I reached the camp and one day later I was back in the BC. The last challenge of the expedition was the flight back to Kathmandu in a huge and very old Russian helicopter. They had once many of these in Nepal, but now there are only 2 left. All the others crashed...